addidtional content:

Hello, in this text I would like to share my thoughts about the F90x camera in a kind of impressions review.

This camera is known in North America as N90s

I want to focus on the practical performance of this camera in general handling and everyday use compared to more recent SLR designs.

This text will not go into the details of the function or technical specifications unless they are necessary to make a point.

General technical properties and functions of this camera can be found in the descriptions.

On some occasions a comparision with the more recent digital SLR D700 will be made, to put the properties of the F90x in perspective with an example of a more recent Nikon DSLR Layout. But it is of course not meant as a comparison video of any kind between this two cameras.

actually this text was a draft for the creation of the video!

The exterior:

The camera construction of the F90x consists of a metal frame covered by a plastic outer shell.

The construction feels very solid in general. There is no flex or movement of the body parts noticeable at all.

Since there is hardly any metal on the outside, the camera never feels very cold and can be operated in very cold weather without gloves.

All really important parts of this camera are well constructed and made from stainless steel.

This includes:The lens mount, the hot shoe, the neckstrab eyelets, the tripod screw mount, the batterie compartment screw and inner screw thread, the rewind fork, the backdoor hinges and the parts of the backdoor locking mechanism on both sides.

The weight, shape and size is just right for an enthusiast style camera. it feels good and secure in the hand.

The rubber parts on the grip of the F90x are made from another material then the one on the D700. This older material is a little less grippy and less spongy. It feels harder and stiffer with somewhat less grip. This grip materials however don’t peel off over time like most grips on the D700.

On the back of the camera there has been applied a rubberish material. This material degraded on most units by now and got sticky.

It was removed on this unit and replaced by a piece of leather.

For removing, the rubber material on the back about an hour of work has to be calculated.

The backdoor is easily detachable, which makes this task a lot easier. The backdoor is in general robust and trustworthy Like the rest of the camera.

The buttons on the shoulders of this camera are mostly in alignment with the surface, the controls which protrude al little bit beyond the surface still have a very rounded flat low profile shape.

The same is true with the hot shoe, which is completely sunken into the prism roof.

This approach of flat surfaces adds to the robustness of this camera. Because obviously survivability means not only withstanding force but also not offering an attack surface in the first place.

The plastic outer shell do not seem confidence-inspiring at the very first look but in general, operating the F90x soon leaves the impressions of an overall dependable and very robust constructed camera.

The F90x was produced between 1994 and 2001. The units are today as of 2019 between 25 and 18 years old by now.

The electronic components in these cameras will work flawlessly today as well for many years to come.

Controls:

The control philosophy of this camera looks a bit unusual at first sight, but is very close to modern DSLRs like the D700.

The On/Off switch on this camera is a sliding design instead of the rotating design around the shutter release of modern Nikon DSLRs. It works fine too and is a little less prone to accidently activation. But this is of course matter of taste.

The shutter release has a very precise travel, not too long, not too short. It is very similar to the one In the D700.

The command dial is big and easy to access. The haptic feedback of the detents is less refined than in the D700 dials, but still absolute useable and nothing to worry about.

Interfaces:

The camera has two displays. One on the top of the camera, one in the viewfinder.

The display on the top of the camera is small in comparison to more modern SLR designs.

It is contrasty and very good readable. It has a built-in effective backside illumination which works actually better than in the D700.

It shows most information that are expected from a modern day DSLR user. But because it is not very big it doesn’t show everything. For example, it shows if exposure compensation is engaged, by flashing this symbol, but it doesn’t show how much compensation is dialed in. In order to see it, the expsore compensation button has to be pressed down. The display of the D700 would show this.

The display in the viewfinder is illuminated by an electric light source in the prism roof as well through a translucent piece of plastic in the prism roof by ambient light.

That means no matter how bright the subject in the viewfinder may be, the display will be good readable, since the surrounding light will also light up the display from behind.

The viewfinder:

The viewfinder is nice and bright and for sure good enough for every kind of photography.

The viewfinder covers 92% of the frame. For film photography that is just right, since there may be a cut off in print processing.

The focusing screen is exchangeable.

The standard focusing screen which you can see here is called Type B. This screen is optimized for AF operation. It can be used to manual focus too of course, but it doesn’t have a split screen. It shows a big circle indicating the area of center weighted metering, a smaller circle showing the area of spot metering and two brackets which indicate the borders of the wide AF metering field. The center AF metering field is not shown. It is smaller than the small circle.

There is only one other screen available for this camera called Type E which just ads “rule of third style”grid lines. This screen too is optimized for AF operation.

There is no focusing screen available optimized for manual focusing with a split screen. But manual focusing is assisted by the autofocus system, so it isn’t really necessary actually.

The F90x has a built-in eyepiece shutter. This is usable while taking exposures with some kind of autometer mode engaged while the eye of the photographer is not on the viewfinder. For example, metering with the camera on a tripod while standing next to it, taking pictures from the hip, or over the heads of a crowd or taking pictures with selftimer. In this case light entering through the viewfinder could distort the metering of the camera through the lens.

Autofocus operation:

The f90x has one cross type AF point which is quite a good one. If you are the focus and recompose type you will be happy.

The autofocus with AF lenses is quite loud and sounds a little like a coffee grinder. The autofocus works with all AF and G lenses.

The focus speed on the D700 and the F90x are more or less indistinguishable fast.

Even in dim light with low contrast targets it is hard to reproduce a situation, where D700 would find a focus and the F90x would not.

The F90x has three Af points There are two Af areas to the left and right of the center point but they are not cross type. It is possible to deactivate them which I usually do.

There is no button for backside focus like on the D700. But there is a af lock button in the front. But that’s not as convenient as the backbutton operation.

While manual focusing on the F90x you can use a focus indicator in the viewfinder, which will tell you if you are in focus.

The shutter:

The shutter speeds can be adjusted in 1/3 stop increments with the F90x camera.

The shutter offers a shortest exposuretime of 1/8000 of a second and a longest of 30 seconds, the flash sync speed is 1/250 of a second. During the auto modes like A or P, the display will show an exposure time, but the camera will expose at the mathematical correct time for the lightsituation, not necessarily at one of the displayed exposuretimes, but times in between too.

I could not find a credible source of information according to the shutterlife of the F90x. Some sources suggested 50.000 others 100.000 cycles as the tested shutterlife.

If we assume the more conservative lower number of 50.000 cycles. That doesn’t sound like much at first but lets make a quick calculation.

50.000 cycles resemble approximately 1400 rolls of film with 36 exposures.

I bought this camera 3 years ago almost unused and exposed about 40 rolls of film with it. That are 1.440 shutter actuations in total and 13,3 rolls per year. To reach a number of 50000 cycles at this rate it would take me over 100 years.

If you would shoot on average 1 roll of film per week, it would take you still almost 30 years to consume that cycles.

So 50000 cycle do not sound like much, but for a analog enthusiast camera that really is enough.

But anyway, reading online about this camera leaves the impressions, that this camera can do much more than 50000 cycles.

Mirror slap

The Mirror slap is a topic of importance for me, because I tend to do a lot of close up work with ambient light or light bulbs instead of flashes.

SLR Cameras without mirror lockup tend to show a certain degree of vibration blur between 1/30 and 1 second exposures due to mirror slap. This is most prominent when using long lenses.

I wanted to use my F90x for my close up photography, but I was concerned about the effect of mirror slap, because the F90 x doesn’t have a mirror lock up and I usually expose at times which are exactly in this critical area.

To determine the effect of mirror slap on this camera, i made a series of pictures with a 135mm macro setup. The focusing distance was at around one meter. the aperture stayed at 1:5,6 and the lens and the target weren’t touched throughout the test.

I used 20 second delay time release and made sure there are absolute no vibrations until the exposure was made. I took every shot two times. The light difference was made by an artificial light source, which was moved away from the target accordingly to create the same exposure on every shot. The shutter speed ranged from 1/60 to ¼ in full stop increments. I used Agfa APX 100 film in this test, I exposed it for ISO 80, and developed it in Rodinal in a 1+100 dilution over 10 minutes with moderate agitation.

The results can be seen here. The visible crop of this picture covers a surface of approximately 3 by 3 mm on the negative. 3 mm are 0.118 inch.

1/60 of a second,

Again 1/60 of a second,

1/30 of a second,

Again 1/30 of a second,

1/15 of a second,

Again 1/15 of a second,

1/8 of a second,

Again 1/8 of a second,

1/4 of a second,

Again 1/4 of a second,

1/2 of a second,

Again 1/2 of a second

I looked very carefully at these enlargements, but I couldn’t really identify any blur or some sort of difference between the exposure other than the usual variations you can expect from analog material. What do you think?

It seems to me, that under the circumstances I take pictures and with the material I use, mirror slap is not reproduceable. And therefore, nonexistent in this camera for me.

This is really impressive, because the D700 which has Mirror Lockup produces quite hefty mirror slap blur in the critical exposure times without mirror lockup engaged.

Maybe if other film material and other setups are used it may be visible, but for me it is an nonissue.

Metering:

The Matrix metering was always spot on in any kind of situation I used it. The pictures came out right exposed roll after roll.

The matrix metering system has less fields than more modern systems, but nevertheless, this system seems to work flawlessly.

Center weighted and spot metering can be used too of course.

The F90x meters with all AI and AIS lenses in center weighted and spot metering mode but not in matrix metering mode.

The F90x meters with all lenses or optical devices attached via adapter in center weighted and spot metering mode, no matter if this is would be a microscope or a telescope, or something completely else.

The Exposure meter lock on the backside is a slider. A button like on the D700 would be preferable though.

Depth of field preview works like on mechanical Nikon cameras. A button on the front has to be pushed against a spring. This does not work like the more modern electronic depth of field preview of the D700.

The Depht of field preview of the F90x will stop down the lens on the value selected on the aperture ring. If you operate the camera in Program or Shutter priority mode with an AF lens you will have fixed the lens at the smallest aperture position.

That means the depth of field preview in Program or Shutter priority mode will not show the depth of field that will be created for the exposure but always the one for the smallest aperture.

The electronic Depht of field button on the D700 would be preferable, because this would show the correct depth of field in Program and shutter priority mode even if the AF lens is locked in its smallest aperture.

But with Manual control and Aperture priority Mode the Depth of field preview on the F90x works as expected and will be mostly used in these modes anyway.

Lens compatibility:

You can mount and operate almost every AI, AIs, AF, AF-D, AF-S, AF-I and G-lens on this camera.

The G-lenses however are not fully supported. Since the G lenses don’t have a aperture control ring, you cannot set the aperture. That means they can be operated in Program mode and in shutter priority mode. But Aperture priority and full manual mode won’t work on g-lenses. VR lenses can be used, but the VR won’t operate. That means pictures can be taken, but they won’t be stabilized.

Workaround for g-lenses to get aperture priority mode:

But there is a way to get some kind of aperture priority mode with G-lenses with a work around. This trick doesn’t work with the F90 or N90 cameras unfortunatley, it only works with the F90x/N90s cameras.

I am showing in this demonstration a DX Nikkor lens, because it is the only G lens I own. This lens would produce vignetting on the Frame if I actually used it for taking pictures.

When it comes to G-lenses, the Motive program modes which are usually not very much noticed become interesting. This motiv program modes are selected by pressing the Ps button and spinning the controlwheel.

The motive modes on this camera are:

Po for Portrait Mode

rE for red Eye reduction

HF for High Depth of field mode

LA for Landscape mode

SL for Siluette mode

Sp for Sports mode

CU for Close up mode

Of interest are the following modes:

Portrait mode Po, Close up mode CU and High Depth of field mode HF

This three modes offer you the possibility of a aperture priority mode and won’t change the aperture value you dialed in, no matter of the light situation.

This three modes make virtually the same with the sole difference, that Portrait Mode and Close up mode will start from a somewhat large aperture and High depth of field mode will start from a rather small aperture. When the camera goes to sleep or you turn the camera off and on again, the camera will start from this aperture value again. It doesn’t remember the value you had dialed in before.

The other modes will not offer an aperture priority mode, because they will alter the aperture value dependeing on the light situation.

While using a TTL flash the depth of field mode will let you flash only in slow sync mode and the other two modes will prevent you from choosing small apertures. At Portrait mode not smaller than f4 in Close up mode not smaller than f8.

Film insert and rewind:

When I put a film in I pull the end all the way until the red mark and i make sure that the hooks of the shaft actually engange in the sprockets of the film, by turning the shaft gently until they lock in.

Then I close the door, turn the camera on and press the release button. The camera advances to the first frame and is ready. I never had a problem this way.

There are two buttons necessary for rewinding the film, to avoid unintended rewind.

There are two sliders necessary in order to open the backdoor which is virtually impossible to do by accident.

Energy:

The F90x camera uses 4 AA Batteries. This batteries can be bought almost anywhere and everywhere.

Depending on the temperature, operation and type of AA cells up to 150 rolls of 36 exposure films can be exposed with one set of batteries

After 3 years and 40 rolls of film I am still on my first set of batteries and the energy indicator tells me they are still complete full and I never recharged them.

Ports:

The F90x has two ports. One is for connecting a flash system.

The other one is a port, over which the camera can be remote controlled. Furthermore, this port can be used to read out information about the last Rolls of film you exposed and the camera settings can be reprogramed. Unfortunately, special equipment is necessary to do so which is hard to come by these days.

Additionally the F90x has an hot shoe on which TTL flashes can be attached. The newer iTTL flashes won’t work though.

Things I personally like:

It uses AA batteries and they last literally forever and are easy to come by

It has a nice size, shape and weight.

It is Very well built and of a very durable and dependable construction.

It offers a Very good matrix metering system which is very reliable I didn’t get a single bad exposure in matrix metering mode.

It is Very cheap on the used market

It can be remote controlled

It offers Excellent ttl flash metering

It has a no nonsense design with a Straight forward and easy operation which gets out of your way at making pictures.

Things I personally don’t like:

No full manual mode with g-lenses, no true Aperture priority mode with g-lenses, only via workaround

Exposure meter lock is a slider and not the preferable button.

No af button on the back.

Overall impressions, suggestions:

This camera could be of interest for you If you want an inexpensive backupcamera.

If you don’t have a lot of g-lenses or don’t mind using manual mode with them.

if you want a good but cheap camera that will produce reliable results so you don’t waste film.

If you want a dependable workhorse, that is not heavy or large at all

You can get one of these cameras right now for the cost of two rolls of film with development.

If you don’t own g-lenses this camera is probably the best deal in analog Nikon Photography for you.

It is a capable and dependable camera. And I think it is really a joy to use.

I hope this content is of use for you.

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Technical Specifications:

Key Features

Cross-type wide-area AF system

Choice of Wide-Area AF and Spot AF

High-speed Focus Tracking up to 4.1 frames per second (fps) with Lock-On™

3D Matrix Metering (with D-/G-type Nikkor lens)

Center-Weighted Metering and Spot Metering

3D Multi-Sensor Balanced Fill-Flash capability (with SB-800 / 80DX / 28DX / 28 / 27)

Seven Vari-Programs

Four exposure modes ([P] / [S] / [A] / [M])

Comprehensive system compatibility: two Finder Screens and two Camera Backs (Multi-Control Back MF-26 and Data Back MF-25), and the whole range of Nikon SB series Speedlights and Nikkor lenses

This information comes directly from Nikon:

https://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/filmcamera/slr/f90x/